Appetites: A restaurant renaissance for St. Paul's Payne Avenue
A handful of savvy food entrepreneurs are banking on St. Paul's Payne Avenue.
Over the years, the Payne Phalen neighborhood has dealt with everything from urban blight and a loss of industry to vacant homes and frequent foreclosures. But the recent arrival of three restaurants — Tongue in Cheek, Ward 6 and Cook St. Paul — are contributing to a new vibrancy. Some are even calling the neighborhood "the new Northeast."
Food writer Mecca Bos joined MPR News' Tom Crann to chat about restaurants in the neighborhood.
Tom Crann: Why do you think these entrepreneurs have chosen the area for their new businesses?
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Mecca Bos: It been a trend to see young chefs and restaurateurs in many major cities across the country take chances in so-called up-and-coming areas where real estate is cheap. Many times, these folks know that there is a consumer base dying for more amenities because they live there themselves, which is the case with the group running Tongue in Cheek, perhaps the most ambitious — at least culinarily speaking — of the places I want to talk about today.
Crann: What kinds of restaurants? And, what kind of food are they serving?
Bos: These places really run the gamut. The chef, Leonard Anderson, is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu and a student of chef Marcus Samuelsson, whom he worked for at Aquavit [in New York City]. His culinary influences are classical French with a heavy Asian accent.
Anderson's wife, Ashleigh Newman, who is a longtime animal-rights activist, said if they were going to do it, then they were going to do it as ethically as possible. So in addition to the ambitious cuisine, they are advertising an equally ambitious campaign of only using animal products that are raised or caught in a sustainable and humane manner, and they insist that this is an ideal that will never be compromised.
Crann: Which dishes are you particularly fond of?
Bos: I'm crazy about their "teasers," which are two- or three-bite plates for just $2. Each one is like a miniaturized version of a fine-dining composed plate like a scallop crudo with wasabi, tiny brunoise apples and fried garlic. You are guaranteed to want yet another bite, and at two bucks, you can.
Crann: What if a person were after something a little more casual?
Bos: For casual, my favorite of the three places is Cook St. Paul, which took over the old Serlin's space, a 35-year-old neighborhood breakfast institution.
The new owner, Eddie Wu, has wisely kept the diner feel of the place, but has infused it with a more updated, airy feel, and a menu that keeps the classics like short stacks of pancakes and eggs your way. But he's also added some of his favorite Korean dishes, including Korean yellow bean pancakes. Many of the old Serlin's regulars make up Cook St. Paul's customer base. The restaurant is still waiting on a liquor license. When it's secured, Wu says he is thinking of inviting chefs to do rotating pop-up restaurants in the space.
Crann: We can't have all this talk about food without mentioning beer. Any of these places boast a great beer list?
Bos: Partners Bob Parker and Eric Foster are longtime restaurant veterans who wanted a really comfortable bar in the neighborhood where they live. The result is Ward 6. It's a nod to the district the bar is located in.
The space is a remodeled building that used to be a bar for the old Hamm's brewery workers to come and unwind after a long day. The vintage St. Paul bar feel is comfortable and inviting, as is the comfort food menu of burgers, sandwiches and salads with a few imaginative entrees thrown in. They have about 20 beers on tap — all of them locally brewed.