Appetites: Best new burgers and brews

Icehouse burger topped with foie gras
Chef Matt Bickford's Icehouse burger is topped with caramelized onions, a truffle Bordelaise sauce and seared foie gras Saturday, June 6, 2015 at Icehouse in Minneapolis. It's one of food writer Rachel Hutton's favorite burgers.
Jennifer Simonson | MPR News

During Minnesota summers, burgers and brews are as ubiquitous as mosquitoes — but likely much more welcome.

Many of us know the local classics by heart: burgers from Matt's Bar or the Nook and a good old Grain Belt. But in recent years, the chef-driven restaurant and craft brewing booms have brought a lot of innovation to both areas.

This month, the Minnesota Monthly staff, including editor Rachel Hutton, busted their bellies to find the best from this new wave of burgers and brews. She spoke to MPR News host Steven John about their findings.

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Describe the changes you've seen in the burger category in recent years.

Much more attention and creativity has been devoted to both areas. It seems like most chef-driven restaurants, no matter how fancy, still like to have a burger on their menu because it's such a popular order. And these chefs treat each component very seriously, elevating the ingredient and technique: grinding their own meat with just the right blend of cuts, topping the patty with everything from fried eggs to foie gras to pork belly.

As for beers, it's well known what has transpired since the so-called Surly Bill passed a few years ago — even bigger changes. After the bill passed in 2011, microbrewers started popping up statewide, led by the bill's namesake, which opened the largest brewery/beer hall in Minnesota.

Each small brewer seems to have a unique approach to the ambiance it cultivates and the beer it crafts. As with the burgers, all this competition has elevated the baseline, so the average beer pint you sample tends to be a lot more interesting and flavorful than the typical macrobrew.

What was your favorite new burger?

I tend to have a "Go big or go home" philosophy when it comes to burgers, so I'm a fan of the one at Icehouse which, for an extra $15, comes topped with a seared hunk of foie gras. Chef Matt Bickford's recipe uses house-ground brisket, sirloin and chuck to create a patty that's paired with caramelized onions, lemon aioli and a truffle Bordelaise sauce. The foie gras adds a super silky texture and mineral flavor to the whole thing.

It's admittedly totally over the top, but it's delicious.

What about the new brews?

Hell lager
A glass of Hell lager Thursday, Jan. 8, 2014, at the Surly Brewing Co. in Minneapolis.
Jennifer Simonson | MPR News 2014

It's nearly impossible to pick favorites, simply because there are so many new breweries on the scene. In fact, during the weeks we were "researching" this article, three more new breweries opened!

What I love about the taproom scene is the variety — there's something for everyone: Dangerous Man Brewing Co. has a family friendly ambiance and a tasty chocolate milk stout; Harriet Brewing's beers have Belgian influence and the room has a Grateful Dead vibe; Steel Toe Brewing's space is pretty bare bones, but it's conveniently located on the bike trail in St. Louis Park and its hoppy Size 7 IPA makes for a refreshing pit stop if you're out on a bike ride.

Has the taproom boom spread beyond the Twin Cities?

Yes, the North Shore has several new breweries, including Bent Paddle Brewing Co. and Canal Park Brewing Co. in Duluth, Minn., and Castle Danger Brewery in Two Harbors.

In the Brainerd Lakes area, there are a couple of laid-back places, Gull Dam Brewing and Jack Pine Brewery, that feel like you're hanging out in somebody's garage.

At Red Wing Brewery, they even serve pizza that incorporates spent grain from the brewing process into its crust.

What did you choose as the best burger and beer combo?

That prize went to Surly Brewing Co. At the new beer hall, chef Jorge Guzman serves a great double patty cheeseburger to pair with a large selection of their standard and seasonal house-brewed beers.

The only problem is that my colleagues and I aren't the only ones who love this combo, so good luck getting a seat!