Appetites: The growth of Lenten fish fry in Minnesota

A new wave of diners wait in line for food while others enjoy their meal.
A new wave of diners wait in line for food while others enjoy their meal. Over 1,000 people ate dinner on a recent Friday at St. Albert the Great in south Minneapolis, March 9, 2018.
Kyle Shiely | MPR News

Born in the church basements of Catholic parishes across the Midwest, the Lenten fish fry has blossomed into a phenomenon, with American Legions, bars and VFW's all looking to get a slice of the fish pie.

In Minnesota, no one does it quite like The Church of St Albert the Great in South Minneapolis. For the first six Fridays in lent, 125 volunteers come together to serve up baked and fried tilapia, cheesy mashed potatoes and coleslaw to an overflow crowd.

Over the past two decades, their fish fry has grown from serving a couple of hundred people to over 1,300 people some weeks.

"When we started in 1999, we were frying our fish in turkey fryers upstairs in a garage. It probably wasn't the safest situation," says Brian Arvold, one of the parishioners who oversees the kitchen.

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Volunteers serve up over 400 lbs. of fish at St Albert the Great in Mpls.
Volunteers serve up over 400 lbs. of fish at St Albert the Great in south Minneapolis on March 9, 2018.
Kyle Shiely | MPR News

"About 15 years ago, we purchased three heavy duty gas fryers and it has been awesome."

On one Friday this year, the parish served up over 470 pounds of tilapia, and 180 pounds of cabbage in their coleslaw for a dinner service goes from 4:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Throughout the dinner, Father Joe Gillespie works the crowd, reading off raffle tickets and telling jokes as people eat their dinners. Even following hernia surgery, the day before, Gillespie wouldn't miss out on the fun.

"I wasn't sure what I would be like, but everything seems fine. I've got a lot of energy. But I've said we need a little chair that I can sit on if I need to, so we've got the Pope available, my stand in," said Gillespie, referring to a standee of Pope Francis near the entrance to the basement. "We'll do a lip-sync."

Baked and fried tilapia, fresh coleslaw, potatoes and soup for dinner.
Baked and fried tilapia, fresh coleslaw, potatoes and soup make up part of a dinner plate at St. Albert the Great fish fry on March 9, 2018 in Minneapolis, Minn.
Kyle Shiely | MPR News

Along with the food, St Albert offers bingo for those waiting to be seated and music in the main hall, "so we don't have 300 people standing around in line," said Gillespie. "You used to be standing around in the rain and the drizzle. I wouldn't do that."

Gillespie said that one of the best parts of the growth in popularity is the way it brings people together. "The one side product of the whole thing is, it really brings such diversity together. You'll find Catholics, and Lutherans, Presbyterians, Jewish friends and neighbors. All kinds of religious traditions. Minnesota at its best I think."

"I always say that if we have any Lutherans here, we have the little card table with the lutefisk down at one end."